Tag: Tusta Krishna das

Michael stroked over the first of two waves and halfway up the face of the third, then sat back on his board, grabbed the left rail, reversed his board, and pulled it under him and aimed it down the face of the wave. There was no need to paddle in this situation. The board was like a dart, and the hand of the wave propelled it toward the target. As the wave lifted the tail of his board, he sprang to his feet and poised in a graceful, cat-like stance. He'd been through it dozens of times...